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About three hours later, I arrived at a second Executive Vault. My job on this one was to replace a malfunctioning Kaba Mas LC lock and MX keypad. The safe was open and its owner had a new S&G Z02 lock and keypad for me to install, which he had received from Cannon Safe.
The hardplate was right up against the safe door’s outer layer, so the mounting screws had to be shortened. This would not have been on a problem on the previous safe, which had a lot of empty space behind the door’s outer layer.
There were four mounting holes in the safe for mounting the lock, but only three were used for the original Kaba lock –the bottom two and the top left. To mount the new S&G lock, I needed the bottom two and the top right. Cannon only taps the holes that they need, so the threads had not yet been cut in the top right hole. So I tapped the hole, then installed the lock.
Next, I installed the relocker detent plate. The spacing of the screw holes to which it mounted on the original Kaba lock is wider than the spacing of the screw holes on the cover of the S&G lock. To accommodate this change, I drilled a new hole in the relocker detent plate. I then installed the plate to restrain the relock plunger until a burglar comes along. I found, however, that the C-clip on this spring-loaded plunger was binding on the lock case. This rendered the relock device ineffective, so I rotated the clip until the bind was resolved.
The completed installation can be seen from the outside and inside of the safe door in Figures 7 and 8, respectively. This safe is very similar to the previous one and has exactly the same boltwork arrangement, but it has a five-spoke handle. Note that the panel on the inside of this safe’s door lacks a change-key hole.
The S&G Z02 RotaryBolt lock, the relock device, and the heart of the boltwork are shown in Figure 9. In Figure 10, the label on the edge of the door shows that this safe was made in the 2nd quarter of 2004.
When I was done, the safe’s owner offered to give me the malfunctioning lock, so I took it with me, planning to use it for some safebusting practice. Back at home, I discovered that the problem was in the keypad (shown in Figure 11). The LED was constantly lit up green because one of the LED wires was grounded through contact with the keypad housing, as seen in Figure 12. The keypad still responded to button presses, but the lock didn’t unlock. I bent the wire away from the housing, resolving the malfunction. If I see this behavior on a locked safe, I’ll check the keypad LED. Proper diagnosis of this problem may save me the trouble of unnecessary drilling some day.
For more information on Cannon Safes, call 800-242-1055 or visit www.cannonsafe.com.
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