2000 – 2007 Ford Focus Poses A Challenge To Locksmiths

Both the trunk lock and ignition lock were designed to be replaced rather than serviced.


Some vehicles locks were just not designed to be worked on, but I’ve never let that stand in my way. The Ford Focus built from 2000 to 2007 will probably go down in the record books as one of the least locksmith-friendly vehicles ever made by a U.S .manufacturer. The ignition lock failed so...


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Some vehicles locks were just not designed to be worked on, but I’ve never let that stand in my way. The Ford Focus built from 2000 to 2007 will probably go down in the record books as one of the least locksmith-friendly vehicles ever made by a U.S .manufacturer. The ignition lock failed so often that it became legendary, and the trunk lock was considered virtually unserviceable.

 

Trunk Lock

Let’s begin by proving that even though the trunk lock was certainly not designed to be serviced, it can be serviced with a lot of determination. The trunk lock, used on the Ford Focus sedan from 2000 until 2007, is more electronic then mechanical. It’s obvious from the design that Ford meant for this lock to be replaced rather than serviced. But with a dealer price of more than $100, you can imagine that a lot of folks would really prefer to have the lock repaired if possible.

You can generate a key for the lock by sight reading the tumblers through the drain hole in the side of the lock cylinder. The trunk lock uses cuts one through six and all six tumblers are easily visible through the drain hole. After you have a working key for the trunk lock, it’s easy to progress cuts seven and eight in the ignition for a completed key.

The problem comes in if you actually have to disassemble the lock for any reason. As you can see in Photo 4, the backside of the lock assembly is a sealed unit that contains more electrical components than I would have thought a trunk lock could possibly use. There is also no access to the lock cylinder itself from the rear of the lock or anywhere else other than through the drain hole. If you plan to rekey the car, or have a broken key or other debris inside the lock that you can’t pull out, you’ll have to either replace the lock or take drastic measures.

The whole thing is held together with a spring-loaded pin inside the arm-like casting on the side of the lock housing. When the lock was assembled, it was rotated until the pin popped into a hole in the metal plate, locking the cylinder in place. There is no poke-hole to depress the pin, so you will have to do it the hard way by modifying the lock.

The easiest way to access the pin is to use a cut-off wheel to remove the “elbow” on the arm-shaped casting. Make sure to wear safety glasses as you do this, since it will throw shavings in all directions. In addition, cut-off wheels often break, sending sharp pieces flying. I’ll make two cuts through the casting so as to cut the “elbow” completely off of the casting.

You will now be able to see the hole for the spring-loaded pin in the casting. You have probably cut the end of the spring off along with the casting, but that really doesn’t matter, because you’re not going to reuse the spring anyway. Pull the spring out of the hole and discard it.

You can sometimes shake the pin out of the hole, but I’ve found that it’s easier to use a magnet to pull the pin out. Once the pin is up, the lock cylinder housing will be free to rotate so that you can remove it. Turn the lock cylinder counter-clockwise and it will pop free of the mounting plate.

The lock cylinder housing has three lugs that fit into slots in the plate while the lock tailpiece fits into the plastic driver in the lock body. After the cylinder has been removed, you can take it apart for service.

The black plastic face-cap comes off easily, if you pry carefully between the face-cap and the lock housing with a pocket knife blade. There is no need to remove the shutter assembly unless you are trying to remove some type of debris from the lock. Having the shutter out of the way will make that type of job much easier.

At the rear of the lock is a return spring that you can remove by pulling up on one leg of the spring with a hook tool. Pay attention to how the spring is fitted so you can reassemble the lock properly. The ends of the spring fit into two slots in the lock housing.

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