The door panel is now secured to the door with just the press-in upholstery clips. I always begin at the bottom of the door where there is better access and a smaller likelihood of damage. Here I’m using two plastic pry-bars to open a gap large enough for me to insert my door panel clip tool. Seeing the clip requires lying on your back and looking up into the gap with a flashlight, but placing the tool on the clip properly is important. Once two or three of the clips have been released, you can work your fingers between the door panel and the door and pull the rest of the clips free. (Photo 24)
As the door panel pulls free, you can work the handle assembly free of the panel. Make sure that the chrome handle shown in Photo 25 does not scrape against the door or the panel as you release it.
After the panel is free of the door, there will still be one small wiring connection that you will have to release. This connection is at the upper forward edge of the door panel and is shown by the blue arrow in photo 26. You will have to work your hand between the panel and the door to release this connection.
After the panel has been removed, you will discover that a molded composite panel almost completely conceals the inner workings of the door. The blue arrow in photo 27 indicates the opposite end of the electrical connector that I mentioned in the previous step. The green arrow indicates the snap-open access panel that you will have to use in order to reach inside the door and release the door lock. The red arrow shows a small snap-in cover that must be removed in order to insert a wrench to unbolt the door lock.
When you remove the small cover near the upper rear corner of the door, you will be able to see the two 10mm bolts that secure the lock into the door. These bolts also secure the outside trim over the door lock. (Photo 28) You will be able to insert a socket on an extension into the door through this opening in order to remove the two screws.
Photo 29 shows a view of the back side of the handle assembly and lock from the inside of the door. After the two bolts have been removed, the trim over the lock can be removed.
The access panel in photo 30 is held closed by a plastic catch, and can be opened without tools. Once the panel is open, you can get your arm inside the door and up to the back of the lock. If you drop any of the bolts, you can also fish them out with a magnet through this opening, like I did. If you have to close the door for any reason while you have the panel off, make sure to close this panel. If you try to close the door with the panel open, it will hit the car seat and possibly break the access panel.
After the two 10mm bolts have been removed, the handle assembly will pull free of the door far enough for you to work the lock out of the door. Before you can remove the lock, you will have to reach up inside the door and disconnect the linkage rod from the lock pawl by feel. (Photo 31)
Getting the lock free of the door is a little like working a puzzle, but eventually it will come out completely and then you can take it to the workbench for whatever service is necessary. The reassembly of the door is essentially the reverse of the disassembly. (Photo 32)
Servicing the Door Lock
There are no codes stamped on the lock, but the lock can be easily disassembled and decoded. The facecap is reusable so the job can be done quickly and easily. (Photo 33)
Six of the seven tumblers are easily visible through the drain hole in the lock, so it’s very easy to decode the lock visually if your goal is to make a key. After you have the six visible cuts correctly cut on a key, all you have to do is progress the one remaining cut until you have a working key. (Photo 34)
If you need to disassemble the lock, you will have to remove the lock pawl, which is held in place with an “E” clip. Make sure to mark the pawl before you remove it so that you can be sure to get it put back on correctly. (Photo 35) The pawl will fit on in two different ways, only one of which is correct.
The facecap can be removed without damage with a little careful prying around the base. Notice in photo 36 that the shutter assembly is captive in the front of the lock plug making the disassembly that much easier.
After the facecap has been removed, the plug will slide free of the housing. Notice the grease that is packed into the lock in photo 37. If you have to degrease the lock while servicing it, be sure to put new grease back into the lock when you reassemble it.
GM models such as the 2010 Buick LaCrosse, GMC Terrain plus Chevrolet Equinox and Chevrolet Camaro use similar locks and can be serviced in the same manner.
These new Strattec high-security 2-track locks are intended to become the standard lock system for future GM vehicles.