Servicing the 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee and Dodge Durango

Last year, the Chrysler Corporation exhibits at the Detroit Auto Show were just plain sad. There were no new product offerings, and the only “Concept Vehicle” didn’t even have a name. The whole thing reminded me of a funeral. This year’s show...


Additional FOBIKs or FOBIK Hybrid keys can be programmed into the vehicle with the standard Chrysler onboard programming procedure if you have two working keys or FOBIKs to work with. The procedure is:

  • Insert a working FOBIK or FOBIK Hybrid key into the ignition and turn it on.
  • After the security light has gone out, turn the ignition off and remove the key or FOBIK.
  • Within 10 seconds, insert the second FOBIK or FOBIK Hybrid key and turn the ignition on.
  • After the security light has gone out, turn the ignition off and remove the key or FOBIK.
  • Insert the new FOBIK or FOBIK Hybrid key and turn the ignition on and start the vehicle.
  • A maximum of eight FOBIKs and / or FOBIK Hybrid keys can be programmed into the vehicle at any one time.

If you do not have two working FOBIKs or FOBIK Hybrids, then a diagnostic device is required. Programming the new “Keyless Go” system requires updated software, and all of the major manufacturers should have their updates available by the time of publication for this article.

In addition to the software, you will also need to obtain the “Immobilizer Code” (often referred to as the PIN Number) either from the dealer or another source. Some of the newer diagnostic devices include software to “pull” the immobilizer code directly from the vehicle’s computer. Regardless of how you program the vehicle, if you are programming a FOBIK, the remote functions of the FOBIK will be automatically programmed at the same time as the transponder.

 

Door Lock Removal

The small rubber covered button in the handle (Photo 15) is a part of the “Keyless Go” system. Pressing this button while the FOBIK is in range of the vehicle will lock or unlock the door. I discovered that it’s not absolutely necessary to press the button though. Simply touching the back side of the door handle with the FOBIK in range will also unlock the door. Unlike a lot of the new vehicles, this door lock cannot be removed without removing the door panel.

As shown in Photo 16, the door panel is secured to the door with 15 press-in upholstery clips, one 10mm bolt, one 7mm bolt, and a Philips head screw. After the screw and the bolts have been removed, the door panel is pried free of the door and lifted over the lip at the top of the door.

The 7mm bolt is located inside the hand-well near the center of the armrest (Photo 17). It is concealed behind a plastic cover that must be carefully pried open. There is a small opening at the edge of the cover that a screwdriver or Shrum tool can be inserted into to release the cover.

A piece of plastic trim located inside the handle assembly conceals the 10mm bolt and the Philips head screw. The trim can be removed by inserting an offset scribe or Shrum tool into the gap between the inside handle and the trim and gently prying. (Photo 18)

The 10mm bolt secures the door panel to the door itself and can be easily removed after the trim has been removed from the handle assembly. Notice in photo 19 that the bolt has had a blue thread locking compound applied to it to prevent it from working loose.

The Phillips head screw secures the handle assembly to the door panel. Removing this screw will allow you to free the door panel from the handle assembly while removing the panel. If you do not remove this screw, you will have to disconnect the cable from the handle assembly. (Photo 20)

A control panel mounted in the forward portion of the armrest is held in place with a series of spring clips. It can be removed by carefully prying around the edges with a plastic door panel tool such as the one I’m using in photo 21.

After the control panel is free of the armrest, the wiring harness can be disconnected. The connector incorporates a locking feature that I had not encountered before. The red portion of the connector locks the release tab so that the connector cannot come loose accidently. This is similar to the CPA (Contact Position Assurance) connectors that GM has been using for some time, but the locking portion is held captive in the connector. (Photo 22)

After the red locking portion has been pulled up with an offset scribe or a Shrum tool (Photo 23), the release tab can be depressed to disconnect the two portions of the connector. When you reassemble the door, make sure that you re-engage this lock.

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