Selecting Replacement Doors
When replacing a door, here are a few door points to consider:
The standard door is usually 1-3/4" or 1-3/8" thick. Doors that are thicker than 1-3/4" are available usually at an up charge.
Proper gauge (metal thickness) for the door is determined by application and environment. As a suggestion, the minimum interior hollow metal door thickness is 18 gauge. Recommended minimum exterior hollow metal door is 16 gauge.
Doors can be ordered with whatever door prep and lock function holes are required. Having the factory prep the door eliminates any cutting or grinding at the jobsite. All you have to do is install the door and the hardware.
Core options vary depending upon the door manufacturer and your needs. To determine the core, consider what the door is protecting. Where is the door being installed? North, south, east or west facing? Is the exterior door always covered or is it exposed to the elements? What is the climate?
Purchasing heavier gauge, reinforced doors for vandal resistance/abusive applications will cost more in the beginning, but should last much longer than a thinner gauge door.
Doors can be strengthened in different fashions depending upon the manufacturers methods of construction. For example, a door can have a continuous edge/seam welding to keep the faces from separating.
As discussed before, door reinforcement, additional pieces of metal, are welded in place in different areas to strengthen the door. Examples include closer reinforcement, lock reinforcement, etc.
When choosing a replacement door, look at the door edge. Is it square edged or beveled? A beveled edge door provides a better fit in most applications. However, the beveled door is handed. A square edged door is non-handed.
There is the option of continuous hinge or thicker gauge butt hinges.
Door companies have different warranties for different models of doors. Find out what the warranty covers. Find out if anything must be done to the door to bring the warranty into effect.
Depending upon the door and the specifications, a higher grade door may end off being less expensive and have a longer warranty than a heavily customized lower quality door.
Important: Before ordering, always look at the door being replaced and write down all of its characteristics. Specify if changes will be made for the replacement door.
Before ordering a door, either you or the supplier can take the measurements. It is always a good idea to have the door company come out and measure the door. Ask the company if there is a charge to measure. The reason is that an improperly measured door is a real problem.
If you decide to measure for the replacement door, there are a number of important considerations. The first is to look at the opening into which the door is being installed.
Are the door frame and the floor level? Use a three-foot level to determine if the threshold is level, if the frame header is level, and the frame legs are plumb (vertical).
The four corners of the opening need to be at right angles, a rectangle. To check if the opening is square, measure the two diagonal lengths (top right to bottom left and top left to bottom right). If they are the same dimension, the opening is square. If it’s not exactly square and you are installing a wood door, it is sometimes possible to trim the door to fit the opening. No more than one-quarter inch should be trimmed from a door to compensate for the opening.
Is the jamb (the load-bearing structure) able to support the door? Look at your existing door. Does it fit the opening and swing properly?
Are the hinges secured to the door edge and the jamb? If not, the screws securing the hinges may not be tight or the jamb needs to be reinforced.
Do your homework before replacing a door; carefully check the condition of all the components. Any problems with the hinges and jamb must be resolved before measurements are taken for the...
Doors can be equipped with push / pull hardware, door viewers, sweeps, plates, flush bolts, center pivots, offset pivots, butt hinges, concealed over-head hinges, floor closers, or over-head surface...