I’ve always disliked the term “deadlock” when applied to a vehicle. It tends to give people the wrong impression of what is actually going on. To me, the term “Deadlock” implies that an additional lock of some type has been engaged. I prefer to think of these systems as a “disconnect...
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The Type 1 and Type 2 systems can be unlocked with traditional vehicle-entry tools by grasping the base of the inside door lock linkage and then pulling up on the linkage. The problem is that the linkage is hard to find and you will have to pull up very hard on the linkage. When I say that you have to pull up hard, I’m not talking about jerking the linkage up, but instead you pull up with gradually increasing force until the linkage moves. (Because you are exerting a lot of pressure on whatever the end of the tool is in contact with, it is vitally important that you are on the correct part of the linkage.) Once the linkage moves, and the button comes up inside the car, you will have to hold it in that position while you pull the outside door handle to actually open the door. On vehicles equipped with Type 1 system, you will also have to pull up hard on the outside handle as well as on the inside linkage.
All Land Rover Discovery vehicles that are equipped with a deadlock have the Type 2 system and there are now tools on the market for bypassing the deadlock using this method.
Using Long-Reach Tools
Long-reach tools (such as the Jiffy-Jak shown in the photos) can be used to unlock most deadlocked vehicles IF you know how to use the tool properly for the type of deadlock that you are attacking. If the keys are visible inside the vehicle, the easiest way to unlock the car with a long-reach tool is to use the tool to pull the keys out of the vehicle, or operate the remote on the key or key ring with the tool, or to turn the ignition on with the tool.
If the keys have been left in the ignition, all you have to do is turn the key to the on position, which will disengage the deadlock system, and then operate the inside power door lock or pull the inside handle to unlock the car. If the keys were left lying on the console or car seat where you can attack them with the tip of the tool, you can push the button on the remote, which on late model BMWs is built into the key itself (see photo 2). Or, you could try to pull the keys completely out of the vehicle, but that is often impossible because of all the other junk that people tend to attach to their key rings.
The Type 3 deadlock system, which is the most common, can be defeated in a three-step operation using a flexible long reach tool.
Step 1: Use the tool to open a gap into the vehicle (see photos 3 and 4) and then operate the inside power door lock control with the tool (see photo 6). The power door lock switch on most BMW models is located on or near the center console. On later model vehicles, it is located on the dash between the air conditioning ducts as shown in the photos. When you press the power door lock button, listen for the power door lock motor to cycle inside the door; if you don’t hear the motor, you have not operated the power locks. To push the power lock button, you will have to put a “reverse bend” in the long reach tool, so that the flat part of the tip is squarely against the power lock button (see photos 7 and 8).
Step 2: Re-bend the tool as shown in photo 9 so that you can attack the inside door handle, either on the same side of the car that you are working on, as shown in photo 10, or on the opposite side of the car. When the inside lock control button pops up, you will have disengaged the deadlock system.
Step 3: At this point you can either release the inside door handle and then pull it a second time, or remove your tools from the car and pull the outside door handle to open the door. I prefer the second method for several reasons. If you pull the inside handle a second time, it will be much harder to pull than the first time (because you are now working the door latch as well as the lock system) and there is a greater danger of slipping off and scratching something inside the car. In addition, if you are using an inflatable wedge as shown in photo nine, the door will “pop open” with great enthusiasm and your tools will go flying in all directions. This looks unprofessional and tends to unsettle your customer if they are watching.
Triggering The Crash Sensor
This is a method that I save for emergencies; in most cases the customer won’t let you use this method anyway. All BMW vehicles since the mid 1980s have been equipped with a crash sensor that is designed to unlock all of the doors in a collision. The trick is to make the sensor think that the car has been in a wreck without doing damage to the car. Fortunately, the sensor so sensitive that BMW used to have a segment in the DVD that came with the car, advising the owner that it was “perfectly normal” for the doors to unlock while crossing railroad tracks or after hitting a large pot-hole.
Why has the process of unlocking cars today changed so much in the last decade? The two biggest factors are crash safety and cost reduction.
Even with all the tools, some jobs are harder than others.