REMOVING THE IGNITION LOCK The ignition lock used on the Mustang is made by Strattec (P/N 708556) and is the same ignition found in the Montego, 500, Freestyle and the new Taurus and Taurus X as well as other Ford vehicles. The lower portion of the steering column shroud is secured to...
To access the remainder of this piece of premium content, you must be registered with Locksmith Ledger. Already have an account? Login
Register in seconds by connecting with your preferred Social Network.
Complete the registration form.
REMOVING THE IGNITION LOCK
The ignition lock used on the Mustang is made by Strattec (P/N 708556) and is the same ignition found in the Montego, 500, Freestyle and the new Taurus and Taurus X as well as other Ford vehicles.
The lower portion of the steering column shroud is secured to the column with two Torx head screws. After the screws have been removed, the lower portion of the shroud can be unclipped from the upper portion and removed to give access to the ignition lock.
The poke-hole for the active retainer is now easily visible from below the steering column. This lock cannot be removed intact in the locked position, so if you cannot turn the lock, you will have to drill out the lock. (
Once the lock has been turned to the “ON” position, an offset scribe or an ice pick can be used to depress the retainer. With the retainer depressed, the lock will pull easily out of the steering column. It is not necessary to remove the transceiver ring from around the ignition in order to depress the retainer or to remove the lock.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE IGNITION LOCK
The lock cylinder in Photo 52 is loaded from the rear of the housing and the lock plug must be removed in the same way. The face of the lock shown here can only be removed after the plug has been removed.
The E-Clip on the rear of the lock cylinder can be removed with snap-ring priers. Take note of how the clip is installed, as you will have to replace it in the same way that it came off when you reassemble the lock.
The Strattec 381944 assembly tool is the easiest way to disassemble and reassemble this lock. If you do not have this tool, you will have to cut a mechanical key to the lock, and then cut off the head. When the headless key is inserted and turned, it will allow you to turn the plug and push it out the rear of the housing.
To use the Strattec 381944 tool, you insert the two prongs on the end of the tool into the lock as shown in Photo 55. Once the tool is seated into the lock, it has the effect of shimming the plug so that it will turn. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, you can turn the plug and pull it out of the housing.
Most of the published information on this vehicle indicates that the ignition lock should contain tumblers 2 – 8. On this vehicle however, the lock contained tumblers 3 – 8 and there was an empty slot where the number one tumbler might have been. This vehicle was fresh from the dealership when I took the photos, so I know that this lock is the way that it was when it left the factory. The moral here is not to assume that any particular lock is set up as some book says it should be, but to always check to make sure.
The black rocker on the front of the plug does double duty as a shutter and as a device to push the lock plug in as the key is inserted. The rocker is held in place with a small plastic clip, one end of which is visible in this photo. Make sure that you grease this part well when you reassemble the lock, so that it will work smoothly.
After that plug has been removed from the housing, the faceplate will fall out of the back of the lock. The tab on the back of the faceplate mates with the slot on the side of the lock plug. Notice also that there are two slots on the rear of the faceplate that link to the groove around the edge of the face-plate. When the faceplate is inserted back into the housing, these slots will have to align with two tabs in the housing.
The two tabs on the front of the lock housing are different sizes to match the slots on the faceplate. This assures that the face-plate can only be installed in the proper position.
After the faceplate has been re-installed into the lock housing, the Strattec 381944 tool is placed over the end of the housing with the prongs facing away from the lock. The tool has a notch to make sure that it will only fit onto the housing in the correct position.
With the tool in place, the lock plug can only be inserted in the correct manner because of a tab on the plug and a matching slot on the tool. Once the plug goes in as far as possible, you will usually have to rotate the faceplate slightly to align the parts so that they seat completely. The lock can be reassembled without the tool, but the tool makes the job much easier.
All four use the GM Z-Keyway system and the “Circle Plus” transponder system. All can be programmed with the standard GM on-board programming procedure, which takes 30 minutes.