The latest version of the Pontiac Grand Prix (Photo 1) was introduced in 2004, as one of the early GM vehicles equipped with the Z-Keyway. From 2004 until 2007, all of these vehicles were equipped with Ortech locks using the Z-Keyway and the PK3 transponder system. In the 2008 model year the...
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DOOR LOCK REMOVAL
Only the driver’s side door is equipped with a lock, and it is mounted in a traditional GM handle assembly. Removing the lock from the door will require you to remove the inner door panel and then loosen or remove the outside door handle so that you can release the spring-wire clip that holds the lock in place.
The door panel on the Grand Prix is fairly simple to remove. Two 10mm bolts are concealed in the armrest, a series of upholstery clips are around the edge of the door and three small pieces of trim must be removed
Begin by carefully prying the plastic insert free of the armrest, to expose the two 10mm bolts that secure the door panel to the door. After these bolts have been removed, the only thing holding the panel on will be the upholstery clips.
The small triangular trim piece at the forward corner of the door is held in place by two upholstery clips. With a little gentle prying, this piece will pop off in your hand.
The circular trim around the inside door handle is held in place with two upholstery clips, located at the top and bottom of the trim. In photo 5, I am using a wooden wedge to carefully pry the edge of the trim away from the panel.
The two upholstery clips on the back of the handle trim have a surprisingly strong grip, so make sure that you do not scratch the trim or the door panel as you remove the handle trim.
Two slots on the lower edge of the door panel are designed for you to insert a clip removing tool. Carefully pry out along the lower edge of the panel to disconnect the upholstery clips one by one. After all of the clips have been released, the top edge of the panel can be pulled up to release the door panel from the door.
All of the wiring that is attached to the door panel is routed through one central connector. Pulling up on the green handle on top of the connector will unlock the connector and push the two portions apart. After the connector has been released, the door panel will be free of the door.
The green handle that is used to disengage the two portions of the connector. This portion of the wiring harness will stay with the door.
The opposite side of the connector that is attached to the door panel. When you reattach the two portions of the connector, do not bend any of the pins, and that the green handle snaps fully into the locked position.
Carefully peel back the clear plastic moisture barrier so that you can reach inside the door cavity. Do not cut or tear this plastic since it serves the very important function of keeping water out of the electronics and other sensitive materials that are attached to the door panel.
The outside handle assembly is secured to the door with two 10mm bolts. Two holes through the inner skin of the door give you direct access to each bolt.
The second access hole is the same hole that the vertical linkage rod passes through. You must remove the rubber grommet before you can access the bolt. Be sure to properly replace the grommet when you reassemble the door, since it also acts as a moisture barrier and a guide for the linkage rod.
Before you can free the handle assembly from the door, you must disconnect the linkage rod from the lock pawl.
Once the two bolts have been removed, and the linkage rod has been disconnected, the handle will pull out of the door. The handle linkage is still connected, so the handle will not pull out very far, but you only need to pull it out this far to remove the spring-wire clip that holds the lock in place.
Once the wire retainer has been pulled back slightly, the lock will be free to slide out from the back of the housing. As soon as the lock is out, you can push the wire retainer back into place. When you slide the lock back into the housing, the ramps on the side of the lock will allow the lock to snap securely back into place.
Once the lock has been removed from the housing, it can be disassembled. The face cap snaps on and off and can be reused. The shutter assembly should stay in place on the front of the lock, but in this case it came off along with the face cap.
If you have to take the shutter assembly apart, watch out for flying springs and parts. I don’t recommend removing the shutter assembly.
There is also a spring-ball detent located at the rear of the lock housing. As you remove the lock plug from the housing, do not lose the spring or the ball. As you reassemble the lock, use a small tool to hold the ball in the compressed position as you slide the plug into place.
GLOVE BOX LOCK
The glove box lock, if equipped, can be removed easily by removing the two screws that hold it in place. Once removed, you can get cuts 7 – 10 from the glove box lock.
The lock plug is held in place by a retainer located near the front of the lock plug. A poke-hole in the side of the housing gives you access to the retainer once you have turned the plug, either with the key or by picking, to the locked position.
With the plug removed from the housing, it is easy to sight read the depths of the four wafers. Or, since each wafer is stamped with the depth, you can remove the wafers to decode the lock.
Only the 2004 model year Grand Prix is equipped with a trunk lock, and it has a face cap that is not reusable.
Inside the trunk, there is no problem gaining access to the lock. The lock is secured by a clip that can be easily removed. If you have a trunk lock to work with, you will be able to obtain cuts 3 – 10 from the trunk lock.
All four use the GM Z-Keyway system and the “Circle Plus” transponder system. All can be programmed with the standard GM on-board programming procedure, which takes 30 minutes.
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