I had the misfortune to blow the engine in my car a while back and while my car was being repaired, I rented a Subaru Outback (Photo 1). This was one of my first experiences with a Subaru because the closest Subaru dealer is 60 miles away. The car itself was nice to drive and I see why the folks...
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Door Lock Removal
In order to remove the door lock, which is the only exterior lock on the vehicle, the door panel must be removed. The door panel is secured to the door with three Philips head screws and a number of upholstery clips around the perimeter of the panel. The three screws are indicated by the arrows in photo 7.
The trickiest part of removing the Outback door panel is removing the outer cover from the door pull. (See Photo 8) The two main screws that secure the door panel are hidden inside the door pull, and the cover fits very tightly. I use my fingernails to pull the cover out as far as possible and then carefully insert a wooden wedge into the gap. As you work the cover free of the door, use caution not to scratch the trim.
After the cover has been removed, you will find two Phillips head screws, one at the top and the other at the bottom of the handle. These are the largest fasteners used on the door because they get the most stress as the door is closed. When you reassemble the door make sure that you retighten these screws securely.
The triangular trim at the forward top portion of the door panel needs to be removed before the door panel can be lifted free of the door. This is a plastic part with a single upholstery clip securing it to the door. Carefully pry around the edges of the trim until it pops off. See Photo 9.
Inside the handle trim, a plastic cover conceals one screw. The cover has a small rectangular opening at the top. Inserting a small screwdriver into the slot will allow you to gently pry the cover free of the handle trim. (See Photo 10)
After the cover has been removed, the Philips head screw can be removed, and then the door panel can be removed from the door.
A series of upholstery clips are around the edge of the door. (See Photo 11) I try not to use any tools other than my fingers to remove these to avoid scratching the paint. If I do have to use a clip removal tool, I’ll start at the bottom of the door panel so that if I do scratch anything, it will not be noticeable.
When all of the upholstery clips have been removed, two wiring connections and the cable linkages must be disconnected before the door panel can be removed. The ends of the two bicycle-style cables that connect to the inside handle assembly are hidden behind this snap-open cover. Gentle prying at the rear end of the cover will expose the cable ends. (See Photo 12)
Once the cable ends are visible, they can be disconnected from the handle. Then the cable housings can be unsnapped from the plastic frame that supports the handle assembly. This will allow you to tilt the door panel out far enough to give you easy access to the remaining two electrical connections. (See Photo 13)
The main electrical connector to the switch assembly can now be disconnected. The connector is secured by a small plastic tab that can be pressed down either with your finger or a small screwdriver in order to release the cable. (See Photo 14)
The last wiring connection is to the courtesy light mounted at the bottom rear corner of the door panel. This connector uses a standard snap together fitting that can be removed easily with a small screwdriver. (Photo 15)
After the moisture barrier has been peeled down at the top rear of the door, you will have access to all of the lock connections. The lock itself is secured to the door with a single 10mm bolt that can be accessed through a hole in the inner door skin.
The electrical switch that is mounted on the rear of the lock is connected to the wiring harness by way of this connector on the inner skin of the door. The connector is similar to the connector on the courtesy light and can be disconnected easily with a small screwdriver. (Photo 16)
The linkage rod that is connected to the tailpiece of the lock will have to be disconnected by feel once the lock is free inside the door. There is very little room to work in this area and it is virtually impossible to see the lock while your hand is in a position to disconnect the linkage rod. Once the linkage rod has been disconnected, the lock can be removed from the door. (Photo 17)
The door lock contains tumblers in the positions 3 – 10, so if the door lock is decoded, you will only have to progress two cuts for a finished key. The drain hole in the lock casing is large enough that you can read six out of eight of the cuts without having to disassemble it any further. With a little progressing, you can determine the remaining two cuts. The lock is relatively easy to disassemble, so if you’ve gone this far, you might as well pull the lock plug out.
The switch on the back of the lock just snaps on and off. A little gently prying will allow you to remove it easily. Whenever I remove a switch like this, I always put a mark on the switch and the casing so that I can be sure that I put back on correctly. (Photo 18)
The tailpiece is secured to the plug with a standard E-clip that can be removed easily with a screwdriver or a scribe. Once again, I usually put a mark on the tailpiece so that I can put it back on exactly as it came off.
As you remove the tailpiece, make sure that you do not dislodge the return spring that is mounted below it. Before you remove the spring, make sure that you know how it is wound on the plug so that you can put it back on correctly. (Photo 19)
The face cap is reusable, but it is crimped on in two places. A little more gentle prying will allow you pull the face cap off of the lock. (Photo 20)
Once the face cap has been removed, the plug will slide out of the housing. The shutter assembly has two tabs that snap over the outer edges of the plug. Unless you are removing a broken key or something of that nature, there is no reason to remove the shutter.
With the plug removed from the housing, you now have access to all of the tumblers and the lock can be easily decoded or serviced at this point. Notice that like most new vehicle locks, this one is packed with grease. If you clean up the lock in order to work on it, make sure that you re-grease the plug before you reassemble it. (Photo 21)
Part 2 of Steve Young’s Guide to servicing the 2005 Subaru Outback will address the glove box lock, ignition lock and transponder programming.
All four use the GM Z-Keyway system and the “Circle Plus” transponder system. All can be programmed with the standard GM on-board programming procedure, which takes 30 minutes.
The new Ford Fiesta uses the new high-security side-milled lock system that Ford plans to phase in worldwide. It also has a transponder system that is essentially the same as other Ford products.