I found a Blu-Mol® 2-1/8” diameter arbored, carbon steel hole saw, part number 6507. This one-inch deep body carbon steel hole saw is designed for wood only and has teeth in a narrow set (kerf). The carbon steel holesaw body is thinner than a comparable bi-metal holesaw. Having a narrow set should prevent much of the undesired cutting into the jig body or inserts. The downside is a carbon steel holesaw does not last as long as a bi-metal holesaw. However, with proper drilling techniques, the carbon steel hole saw can last for many wood door lock installations.
I prefer using an auger bit for drilling the edge bore with an installation tool. The tip of the auger bit is threaded. I start drilling slowly, making sure the drill bit slides easily through the installation tool and begins cutting away material. I strongly suggest no one uses a spade or spur bit when using an installation tool.
The Bulls Eye Installation Tool for Cylindrical Locksets has movable basket tabs to set the backset. With the tabs extended, the backset is 2-3/4”. Because this is a residential lock installation, I will set the backset at 2-3/8”, the same dimension as the existing locks. Note: The F Series lever lock latch is adjustable for both backsets.
For this installation, I will drill the cross bore opening first. I will drill from one side about half way. Then I will drill from the other side of the door to complete the opening.
The next step is to drill out the edge bore. Once the auger bit has cut into the cross bore, stop drilling. Remove the installation tool and remove any rough edges.
To install the latch bolt into the edge of the door, I use it as a guide. I make sure the latch bolt is vertical and draw a line around the face. Using a 7/8” wood chisel, I remove enough material from the door edge to recess the latch having the plate flush.
The wood chips are then vacuumed up and the lock is installed.