Like the cylindrical lock installation jig, the Bullseye Cabinet Lock Installation Jig has a plate leveling adjustment tool and an adjustment knob for tightening the unit flush onto a door or drawer front. Unlike the cylindrical lock jig, the cabinet jig plate assemblies are spring loaded. When the knob is loosened, the plate assemblies spread, reducing time required to remove and position the jig onto another cabinet or desk.
Note: Always protect the surface of the cabinet door or drawer front to prevent any potential damage that could be caused by the installation jig.
To remove or attach the bushings, a 3/32” hex wrench is included with the installation jig.
CYLINDRICAL LOCKSET JIG
The Bulls Eye Installation Tool for Cylindrical Locksets #BUL-2 is a 1-1/2” and 2-1/8” diameter drill jig with 2-3/8” or 2-3/4” backsets. This solid metal installation tool is designed for preparing wood and hollow metal doors up to 2-1/2” thick.
The new BUL-2 has been upgraded with the addition of Gator Grip Pads, textured neoprene attached to the inside faces of the drill plate assemblies, eliminating metal contact with the door faces. The Gator Grip provides no-damage contact with wooden or painted doors. This eliminates the need to protect the surfaces of the door before mounting the installation tool.
This new tool does not come with drill bits. It is designed to operate with holesaws, Forstner (spur) bits and auger bits.
For those locksmiths who have the Bulls Eye Installation Tool for Cylindrical Locksets #BUL-2 without the Gator Grip Pads, the pads can be ordered separately. The Gator Grip Pads can be order using the A1 part number CJ-041.
Consider the following drilling tips when installing locking hardware:
Always wear eye protection.
Place newspaper down to protect the floor and make cleanup easier.
Use an installation tool to prevent damage to the door.
Make sure the drill bits, holesaws, pilot bits, etc. are sharp.
If adjustable, make sure the pilot bit extends from the holesaw by at least 3/16”. For wood doors, a little more.
Make sure the installation tool is mounted securely against the faces of the door.
Make sure the door is protected against damage from the installation tool.
Place the entire holesaw cutting edge against the face of the door and let the hole saw cut.
Do not push on the holesaw when cutting.
Let the hole saw do the work.
The more force placed against the face of the door, the faster the holesaw/drill bit will become dull.
Feed the holesaw/drill bit in and out to allow material cuttings to clear out of the hole being cut.
When cutting in wood, finish the hole from the opposite side to prevent splintering
Use a one-inch diameter hole saw drilling speed for the following types of doors.
Hollow metal door: approximately 350 rpm
Wood door: approximately 600-1200 rpm
Use A 2-1/8” diameter hole saw drilling speed for:
Hollow metal door: approximately 150 rpm
Wood door: approximately 300-600 rpm
Drilling speeds increase for smaller diameter holes and decrease for larger diameter holes.
Drilling too fast causes the bit or holesaw to heat up and will dull faster than drilling at the proper speed. A good way to know you are drilling too fast and/or your bit is dull in wood is smoke appears and the wood begins to turn dark.
For this article, I will install a Schlage F Series cylindrical lock into a newly installed six panel hollow core door. The lock will be installed using a 2-1/8” cross bore and a 2-3/8” backset. The edge bore is one-inch diameter.
Three doors in this hallway are in close proximity. The two other doors have locks positioned approximately 36” above the finished floor. This dimension happens to be roughly at the middle of the lower cross rail.
Tip: When installing a lock into a new door, measure the lock height of nearby doors so each installation will appear comparable. Since only the door has been replaced, installing the new lock at 36” above the finished floor is compatible with the strike opening.
I removed the 1-1/2” inserts from the Bulls Eye Installation Tool. I marked the edge of the door at 36 inches above the finished floor. This will be the centerline for the edge bore.