I saw the first concept version of the new Camaro (Photo 1) at the Detroit auto show in 2007, and ever since then, I have been looking forward to taking one apart. In early October of 2009, I finally got my chance and spent four days doing everything I could imagine a locksmith having to do to...
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When the tool is at the proper depth, slide it toward the rear of the car until the shaft of the tool is even with the inside lock button. At that point, rotate the handle of the tool out so that the tip of the tool is as far to the inside of the door as possible. You may have to adjust the depth of the tool slightly in order to clear the obstructions inside the door. (See photo 9)
If you have positioned the tool properly, you should feel the tool hook behind the vertical linkage rod and see the inside lock button move slightly. At that point, pulling up on the tool will raise the inside lock button and unlock the door. Once the door is open, you will have to work your tool out of the door the same way that you inserted it in order to protect the glass. Always make sure that the tip of the tool is below the glass when you are rotating the tool.
Inside the door, the metal guard extends above the linkage rod that prevents an attack with traditional tools. In addition, notice the bundle of wires that runs just below the access point for the linkage. Because of these twin obstacles, you must position the tool properly, with the index mark even with the top of the weatherstripping as you attempt to hook onto the rod. When the tool is in the correct position, pulling up will lift the linkage rod easily.
Removing & Servicing The Door Lock
Like many new vehicles, there is only one lock on the exterior of the Camaro and it is located in the driver’s side door (Photo 12). To remove the lock, first pop the rubber cap out of the access hole on the edge of the door. Inside, you will see the Torx® bolt that secures the lock. Loosen but do not remove this bolt. As you loosen the bolt, pull out on the face of the lock until it comes free of the door as shown in photo three. Do not loosen the securing screw any more than necessary.
The painted cover on the lock can be easily pried free of the lock housing so that you can service the lock without danger of scratching the cover. The door lock is referred to as a “Free Wheeling” door lock by Strattec because it incorporates a clutch. If too much force is applied to the lock, the clutch will disengage and allow the entire lock cylinder to spin freely without unlocking the door. A portion of the clutch assembly can be seen in photo 13.
The lock cylinder itself is held into the outer housing by way of a solid blade-like retainer that is staked into place.
A poke-hole near the rear of the lock will allow you to drive out the roll-pin that holds the driver (tailpiece) in place at the rear of the lock plug. In order to drive out the roll pin, you will need a 1/16” pin-punch, which is the same size pin-punch that you will need for servicing the key fob as shown later.
After driving out the roll-pin, you will be able to remove the driver and part of the clutch assembly from the back of the plug. The clutch is held in place between the base of the driver and the back of the lock cylinder, but is free to slide back and forth inside the slot in the driver. (See photo 14)
With the two parts separated, you can easily see that the hole in the middle of the clutch is oval, which will allow the tab in the center of the clutch to either fit into, or disengage from, a slot in the lock plug. There is also a curved slot in the underside of the clutch that fits over the tip of the clutch pin or “Freewheel Pin” shown in the photo 16.
The clutch pin fits into a slot in the side of the lock cylinder and rests against the clutch pad or “Buffer,” with the small tip of the clutch pin fitted into the curved slot in the bottom of the clutch. All of these parts work together as shown below to allow the lock cylinder to freewheel if too much force is applied to the lock.
Photo 17 shows the rear end of the lock assembly with the driver and clutch removed. When the clutch is properly installed, the curved slot will fit over the tip of the clutch pin and the tab in the clutch will fit snugly into the slot in the tail-shaft of the lock plug.
If excessive force is used on the lock plug in an attempt to pick the lock or to force it to turn, the clutch pin will be pressed into the rubber clutch pad (buffer) and this will allow the entire cylinder sleeve to freewheel. But, as the clutch pin is pressed into the clutch pad, the tip of the pin will pull the clutch with it and disengage the tab from the slot in the lock plug. Once the clutch has been disengaged, the lock plug and the sleeve can be turned freely, but the clutch and the driver will not move.
These new Strattec high-security 2-track locks are intended to become the standard lock system for future GM vehicles.
The new Ford Fiesta uses the new high-security side-milled lock system that Ford plans to phase in worldwide. It also has a transponder system that is essentially the same as other Ford products.