Servicing the 2010 Chevy Camaro

I saw the first concept version of the new Camaro (Photo 1) at the Detroit auto show in 2007, and ever since then, I have been looking forward to taking one apart. In early October of 2009, I finally got my chance and spent four days doing everything I could imagine a locksmith having to do to this car.

The 2010 Camaro is the first production car from GM to feature the new high-security 2-track locks from Strattec. These same locks, or slightly different versions of these locks, will be standard equipment on four other 2010 models: the Chevrolet Equinox, the Buick Allure, & Lacrosse, Cadillac SRX and the GMC Terrain. (The Buick Allure is essentially the same car as the Lacrosse, but sold in Canada.) Eventually, this lock system will be phased in across the whole GM line. I’m making a DVD that will cover the service procedures for these new locks.

In the meantime, the most important thing that I can tell you about servicing the locks is that once you have the door lock out, DO NOT pull the outside door handle. I made that mistake, and the handle came off in my hand! It took me two hours to get it back in place correctly.

The door lock comes out easily with a single screw-operated clamp that is similar to those used on various European vehicles, but the lock normally traps the handle in place. With the lock removed, there is nothing to prevent the handle from being pulled free of the door.

The ignition lock comes out easily if you have a key for it, but the poke-hole is difficult to find. The end of the Shrum tool in photo 4 is in the poke hole, which is almost impossible to see because it is located inside a recess in the brace that is located at the top of the lock housing. To remove the lock, just turn it to the “ON” position and depress the retainer with a Shrum tool or something similar. As soon as you depress the retainer, the lock plug will literally jump out half an inch and then it can be pulled the rest of the way out.

In addition to the high-security locks, the Camaro also has indexing glass, very tight weatherstripping and an inside door handle that is mounted well out of the reach of any under-window tool. In other words, unlocking the new Camaro is a challenge.

Because of the construction of the door, trying to use a long-reach tool such as the Jiffy-Jak will almost certainly result in a broken window. Even the inside of the door is so well protected that I had to design a new tool just for this car, the Tech-Train 1037 (Photo 5).

Unlocking The Camaro

Begin by wedging open a gap into the door just forward of the inside lock button. Because of the tight fitting multi-layer weatherstripping, you will have to use a shim like the LKM202 that I’m using in photo 6 to prevent damage. Insert the shim between the glass and the weatherstripping, and then slip the wedge between the shim and the glass. This prevents the lower layers of the weatherstripping from rolling or tearing under your wedge.

The TT1037 tool has a 90-degree bend at the end to hook the inside vertical linkage rod at the one spot where it is exposed. Because of this bend, use care as you insert and remove the tool from the door. Careless use of the tool could easily result in a broken window. The tool is also designed specifically for the passenger side door. Insert the tool into the door just to the rear of the wedge, with the tip of the tool pointing forward. Lower the tool into the door as far as it will go before attempting to rotate the tool. This will put the bend at the end of the tool below the base of the window glass. Attempting to rotate the tool before it is below the glass can easily break the window. (See photo 7)

When the tip of the tool is as deep inside the door as possible, rotate the handle of the tool forward so that you can work the shaft of the tool into the door. There is an index mark on the shaft of the tool, and you will need to lower the tool until the index mark is even with the top of the weatherstripping while the shaft of the tool is held vertical. As you position the tool, keep the end of the tool pointed as far forward as possible. (See photo 8)